As a designer marching to the beat of his own drum, it’s destined that NYFW designer Bibhu Mohapatra’s latest collection is the gateway we’ve all been waiting for.
Progressive and innovatively constructed, Mohapatra channeled fashion muse and British author Nancy Cunard for its Fall 2023 collection. Mohapatra described how his collection is “an allegory for the rebel among us”.
The rebellion taking place on the runway was evident in Mohapatra’s edgy and calculated looks, including a monochromatic ivory Poetes dress with two-sided pleats and a cream cashmere fringed stole. Most notably, her citrus biker gloves are layered with multicolored bangles reminiscent of those worn by Nancy Cunard. In fact, a vibrant biker, her gloves and bangles adorned the runway alongside a variety of clothing.
Additionally, beautifully crafted looks curated by Mohapatra include a Berber dress in bordeaux leather with embroidered shawls hanging from the shoulders, a leather dress with a modern silhouette at the hem, and a fur hem paired with a pleated skirt. It included a bomber jacket, rich mink fur over a silk ensemble. .
Known for dressing celebrities like Michelle Obama and Puma creative director June Ambrose, Mohapatra has come a long way since learning to sew from old fabrics from her mother in India. His Fall ’23 collection takes us on a visual timeline from ready-to-wear to evening his wear, watching his line transition from edgy beginnings to soft demise. It was fascinating to watch.
Surprisingly embracing evening wear in effortless and timeless gowns towards the end of the show, we saw what makes Mohapatra so versatile. Gowns in satin, sheer and tulle His masterful use of embroidered crystals and beads oozed beauty and charm. Bibhu Mohapatra drew a picture for us. If his interpretation is the same as what we can expect from other designers in his Fall 2023, we’re in for a pleasant surprise.